Straying Alive

As we travelled further east we encountered an increasing number of stray dogs. Initially our reaction was fear but the more we travelled the more that we understood that it’s important we engage with them.

Many a morning I go for a run and one of my first encounters with strays was in Erdine early in the morning as the sun was rising. Running through the back streets I first encountered a dog in a very poor state. She was more fearful of me and cowered as I passed. Further into the run I encountered dogs that were probably owned, and were guarding their patch.

Worrying about being bitten in the early days after leaving Europe my instinct was to face down any dog curious in what I was doing. I would stand my ground and project to which ever dog was barking that I was not to be messed with. Often this led to an escalation in tension, the dog in question increasingly baring teething and making aggressive noises, me continuing to stand up.

The further we’ve travelled the more I’ve come to realise that the dogs mostly fall into two categories. Those that are not stray and are protecting their space and those that are stray, curious, some times scared and mostly looking for friendship.

For me the penny dropped a few weeks back. Camping in the middle of Georgia, we shared a site with a German couple who were travelling with a dog. One afternoon Kai and I made a trip to the local monastery to get some wine. Given it was a few miles away I suggested we go on bikes. So we ended up on our Bromptons passing through the unpaved back roads of the village we were staying. Earlier in the morning I’d run and had the usual stand off reaction that I’d encountered for a few weeks. That afternoon I asked Kai what he does about street dogs and he responded that he talks to them in a childish way – in his case in German. As we cycled it was quickly apparent that talking to the dogs and letting them know that you were not a threat was the way forward.

Now as I’m cycling or running I talk to the dogs on the side of the road, mostly it works. I will say silly stuff in a childish voice – “Hey doggie, how are you?”. “Hey doggie, do want to come for a run?”

Although Juliet grew up with dogs she’s always had cats and is more inclined in that direction and over the course of our journey we are both changing our relationship with the dogs we encounter.

In our hearts we have three special dogs that have touched us more deeply and personally. Most of the time now, when we go for a walk, we often end up with a dog who just wants to come along for the ride.

In Lagodekhi national park a few weeks back, in the pissing rain, trekking up to see a waterfall, out of no where a dog appeared. Nearing the turn point we assumed she’d remain when we descended. But no she wanted to come with us as we descended. At times becoming visibly anxious when we walked apart, more settled when we remained as a group. She stayed with us all the way back to our car. To us it seemed she desired to be our guardian, ensuring our safe passage through the woods and mountain that were hers. The emotional connection was made and we still wonder how our beautiful dog in Lagodekhi is doing.

Up in the mountains north of Mestia I suggested a walk to Juliet. 10 minutes in we were surprised to see a UK plated Fiat on the side of the track. Surprised doesn’t really describe what we felt. Probably the first UK car plate since Romania. The afternoon was never going to be normal. A very British “afternoon” as we walked passed the car not wanting to overstate the unusualness of the situation, resulted in a question a few minutes later – “Would you like to join us for a walk?”. Lots to talk about we ambled up the track to the bottom of the valley that leads to Ushba – one of the regions iconic mountains. Carolyn our fellow British traveller was with her dog, so she was weary of stray dogs. On the way down I let her know that I’d seen a stray the morning before while out cycling in the area we were passing. Duly a beagle sort of dog appeared and we ended picking up Carolyn’s corgi as a precaution. Our beagle sort of dog continued to walk with us, sometimes close by, some times wandering off to investigate something or other on the side of the road. Still with us when we got back to the van, seeming to love the company and that we were happy with her. So gentle. She stayed with us overnight and was there in the morning when I woke early to go for a cycle. Much like our Lagodekhi friend it felt as if she just wanted to make sure that we were safe in her patch of the world.

Further along the road camping in a beautiful pine forest on the side of the Black Sea north of Batumi, another beautiful dog befriended. We stayed with her for a couple of evenings and took her for walks on the beach. Happy for the company, she loved it when we threw sticks for her. Friendly at all times. She was beautiful.

Since our encounters with these three dogs, I’ve been more actively encouraging any dog I see. Some remain on the side of the road, possibly because it’s too hot, or because they already have someone to walk them. Many a time though I find I have a companion to run or cycle with. Sometimes it’s for a few hundred meters, sometimes much longer. However long, I’m truly grateful to all the beautiful dogs I encounter for taking the time to wander with me. Running with stray dogs is lovely and something I will do more of as and when I get the opportunity. With some of them it’s hard saying good-bye.

When we are back in the UK with more consistent access to the internet, I will endeavour to put together a short film clip of many of the beautiful dogs we’ve shared some of our journey with.