It’s days like these that we live for. Days that chop and change, twist and turn. Days that are seemingly certain, but actually quite uncertain. Beautiful, unexpected and ones that make you think about what you have and what you do with it.
I can’t even say that today started off like any other as there has only been one other day that I’ve woken up on the side of a cliff in the middle of Cappadocia. That was yesterday. But when today started it felt like many that we’ve had, now that our journey is taking shape.
Rising with the sun and out for a short run, after which I made tea and coffee for Juliet and I. From there we are into the pack the van routine, by now it’s ordered and well practiced. We set off for a campsite 4 hours away on a lake just outside Adana.
On the motorway we discover there are no petrol stations and head off route looking for fuel. At this point we should have realised that the day would be different. Before too long we are in a beautiful valley enclosed with snow capped peaks. Weird given the temperature was nearing 30C. The mountains north and west of Adana have to be explored another time as they are beautiful and promise much.
Adana is big and hot by the time we arrive – 35C outside and hotter in the van. Something we know we are going to have to work out as summer starts to take shape and the temperatures rise significantly. The van is no place to be, when it is over 35C. Even opening the doors as you drive doesn’t provide enough air to cool the interior.
In Adana I realise that I need to be more watchful while driving. Cars, motor bikes, lorries and busses overtaking on either side. Mopeds coming the wrong way down the road towards you on the hard shoulder.
By the time Google pronounces we “have arrived” Juliet and I are hot and sticky with sweat. But Google’s pronouncement turns out to be optimistic. This morning we were looking forward to a proper campsite, with showers and a washing machine. Cappadocia is beautiful, but it is dusty and most things we have are covered in a thin layer of dust.
Finding places to stay in Turkey can be challenging especially as you head off the beaten track. We see very few camper vans and motor homes this far east. Even fewer are European. The number of campsites reflects this. We’ve mostly been relying on Park4Night which, with a few simple rules gets it right. The most important rule being how many reviews a place has and are the reviews within the last 12 months. Today we break that rule. The campsite we have chosen, appears to have never existed as it’s a building site.
The builders direct us round the bay to a shack. It’s certainly not the campsite we were expecting. We enquired whether there was any camping around, and were given short shrift. Back in the van looking for alternatives the owner of the shack came over and asked if we needed electricity. When we said no, he directed us to a space in between some derelict boats. It certainly wouldn’t have gone down as the highlight of our camping memories. But it was somewhere to stay for the night. He invited us in for tea and one thing led to another. Juliet had a tour of his geese, fan tailed doves and beautiful pink pigeons. He then said it might be better if we moved. He allowed us to use his shower. A basic tap fixed to the ceiling, but the cold water was delightful in the hot afternoon.
Since then we’ve been practicing our Turkish and feeling more confident pronouncing words. The locals have all been lovely. The shack owner invited us for food. His sone and grandson came over with a few of their friends as they were going out fishing. We help bait up the lines while we drink raki that the shack owner assures us will make us feel better.
Later the fishing party leaves and we retire to bed, bellies full of olives, tomatoes, cheese and raki.
Feeling a little rough in the morning we wake and have breakfast with the shack owner. It turns out that the fishing party’s boat broke down, they caught four large fish and a local friend had to go and fetch the grandson so that he could go to school, while the broken boat was unceremoniously towed back to the shack.
It’s a wonderful night. We leave happy, heading for Gaziantep.
It’s days like these that make travel. Unexpected and full of connection with fellow humans divided by language, yet joined by our common wish to understand and share. When you see the world from this perspective it’s a beautiful place.
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