It’s easy when you venture from one country to another to start comparing. I prefer this, or that.
Getting off the ferry in Jaffna, my brain started down this path, and I had to remind myself that I am moving into judging mode, alienating me from others around, raising barriers . My journey about connection and trust.
After two weeks in Sri Lanka I’ve made it from the very north above Jaffna right down to the southern most tip at Dondra point and then up the west coast, north of Colombo. Some 950km. The countryside constantly changing. Through the open flat landscape of the north, into the jungle and then up into the high tea plantations, before finally dropping down to flatter southern coast. The culture changing along with the terrain.
In Jaffna I went for a drink in a bar and as so often is the case a conversation started. Here the drinkers part of the Tamil community. We touched the war, the peace and the effects it has had on the people. I felt two main things from my fellow drinkers as I left. Relief that the conflict has finished and people can live normal lives, but sadness that the conflict caused many of the Tamil minority to leave and seek safety in far away lands.
Having talked to others as I’ve moved south and away from the Tamil community I do feel there is country wide relief that the conflict had ended. As an outside observer I don’t know all of the details of what went on, but I know pain is still present in the different communities of the divide.
My journey through Sri Lanka slicing through the middle and cultural heartland. On the way through I stayed in Udawalwa to see the elephants. Like so much of my journey, local wisdom providing me with the insight as to where to go. Arriving in Udawalawa and feeling hungry I pulled up just outside the elephant transit house. Clive the host from the previous night had told me to go and watch feeding of the baby elephants. Parking my bicycle I noticed another bike. Pasan the owner, a doctor and out for a day trip. After a few minutes we’d somehow arranged to go for a cycle ride together. Along the dam, the wind blowing across, pushing us left and right on the road. Water buffaloes grazing the banks of the dam as we looked out the other way. First we spotted a few deer and then two elephants in the distance. Brown with the mud they’d thrown over themselves to protect their skin.
At the end of the dam we stopped in the shade and talked for a little while before I turned to go and watch the baby elephants and Pasan continued to get closer to the wild elephants.
As we departed we wished each other “Budu Saranai” or “May you be protected by the Buddha”.
As a solo cyclist It’s such a treat to cycle with someone local.
Further on in my journey while on the south coast as I was leaving the Airbnb I stayed at in Galle, Nanda and Namali , the mother and sister of the owner invited me in for a coffee in their downstairs kitchen. As I entered and sat down, eggs and coconut milk infused with turmeric, salt and curry leaves were simmering away on the hob ready for their breakfast. I asked loads of questions about the cooking and then while I was drinking my coffee I asked about the tsunami. On the morning it hit the water reached their gate and flooded their next door neighbour. Many people around were affected. One friend loosing a daughter who’s body has never been found. As a parent I can not begin to imagine the pain and grief that poor family have had to endure never knowing what had happened to their child.
Further up the road from Galle I stopped at a number of memorials to remember the tsunami. In one there is a giant Buddha that is as high as the initial wave and its enormous size really gives some perspective of the immense size of the initial wave. In another a simple stone marks a mass burial site.
A few kilometers down the road from the giant Bhudda I stoped at the Tusnami museum and education center. There I learnt more about the geology and causes of tsunamis before the lady who runs the place took me into see the photos in a number of adjoining rooms. There’s a damaged clock on the wall that like all other clocks recovered, records the time of day that the tsunami struck.
She told me she was a survivor and then explained that many of the deaths could have been prevented by better education. Every so often uttering the words “what is there to do?” as if still questioning herself and wondering if she could have done more on that fateful morning to help save others.
An hour ahead of the tsunami the sea around the coastline receded and many people curious walked out on to the sea bed completely oblivious of the impending danger. CCTV images show the wall of water approaching the people who all perished.
In one large room is the carriage from one of the trains that was washed away. Only three people survived. More than 1,700 people on board lost their lives as the train was engulfed by the massive second wave.
Bodies were buried in mass graves. Subsequently there was a lot of disease that affected the survivors. Many children were orphaned and left unable to talk. It has taken many years to rehabilitate so many people and while most of the buildings have been repairs, new roads laid and the railway reinstated the wounds inflicted still exist in the people
Towards the end of our conversation I asked whether in some way the tsunami led to peace on island of Sri Lanka. She thought probably so.
While there are scars in many people’s minds and hearts from both the Tsunami and war, what is clear to me cycling through beautiful Sri Lanka is that people are happy that there is peace and that lives can continue to be rebuilt as one nation that is prosperous and harmonious and a beacon for the rest of the world. All children of one mother.
Before I move on to the next stage of my adventure, I have two weeks off the bike as Juliet and my cousin Fiona are coming to meet me in Colombo for a couple of weeks. It will feel strange, my daily routine, eat sleep cycle on pause. But I’m thankful that I still have more time in beautiful Sri Lanka.
I can’t believe I’ve waited so long to visit. It should be top of everyone’s list. It really does have it all. People, culture, food, countryside, nature the list is long.
Love and peace from Sri Lanka.
